Just like everything else that was big in the 90s, the gastropub is undergoing a renaissance – forget fish, chips and beer (albeit not entirely) and replace the image of classic drinking fare with something a little more refined but equally delicious. The latest to swing open its doors is The Baring, a reinvented pub on the Islington/Shoreditch border that specialises in simple, sustainable food from a chef and manager who have some of London’s most highly-regarded restaurants on their CVs (think Dabbous, Moro, Kerridge’s Bar and Grill and Orasay).
“This quaint spot has the warm reception typical of a neighbourhood pub,” says Stylist’s digital entertainment writer Morgan Cormack. “The friendly service is just one of the plus points though, as the food really does speak for itself. Starters like quail shish and pig cheek with smoked eel were unexpected winners, while the charred mackerel with salmorejo and courgette is an unmissable citrusy taste of summer. The mains are made for sharing – as well as the sea bream with cockle vinaigrette and a side of grilled hispi cabbage, it was the salt marsh lamb, kofte and smoky aubergine that garnered the most head nods and sighs of approval. Each dish may seem straightforward but the attention to ingredients and flavour pairings lets each plate sing in its own right. I’ll definitely be returning, not least to try the rest of this simple-yet-brilliant menu but be warned: you may never look at your local the same again after venturing here.” 55 Baring St, London, N1