Now that British summertime is finally here (hello, heatwave), it’s inevitable that sunny evenings will be occupied by herculean efforts to light the BBQ. But if you have a troubled relationship with firelighters, we suggest heading to Firebird instead. The new open fire restaurant and natural wine bar from St Peterburg’s esteemed restaurateurs Madina Kazhimova and Anna Dolgushina is transporting diners to the Med with a menu that revolves around the power of the flame.
“It’s no mean feat to take a sliver of square footage in Soho and create a space where you feel like you’ve stepped foot onto a Greek island, but somehow, Firebird has pulled it off,” says Stylist’s digital entertainment editor Christobel Hastings. “The restaurant is all wood, terracotta and artful lighting; sitting by the grill gives you a great view of the chefs corralling the coals. After starting with sourdough focaccia, choux buns with chicken liver pate, smoky chicken skewers and grilled halloumi with Greek honey and truffle, we promptly ordered seconds because they were so exquisite. Next came glazed pork belly with potato salad and plum ketchup, and chicken breast with bacon jam and oyster mushrooms. We didn’t think we had room for dessert, until we saw them: hazelnut praline cream and coffee cake and the prettiest honeycomb and strawberry éclair, which were washed down with a baked banana old-fashioned. The flavour combinations are inventive, the vibes are right and the satisfaction of consuming all things torched, scorched and smoked without lifting a finger is second to none. Just be sure to go with an empty stomach.” 29 Poland St, London, W1F