When it comes to Portuguese food, Nando’s has a lot to answer for. The global chain – originally founded in Johannesburg – made piri-piri chicken so synonymous with the country’s cuisine that you almost sigh with relief when it’s nowhere to be found on the menu of Lisboeta. But given it’s the newborn baby of celebrated chef Nuno Mendes (he of former Chiltern Firehouse fame), Lisboeta’s menu was never going down the obvious path. And it’s not just the food that’s curated with the utmost care – the tiled floor is designed to remind you of Lisbon’s cobbled streets, the ground floor bar topped with a particular limestone specific to nearby Sintra, and the upstairs gallery wall boasts works from the Feira da Ladra flea market, as well as Mendes’ personal collection.
“Piri-piri fans will be happy to know that it doesn’t totally miss out, thanks to being sprinkled on oversized grilled prawns,” says Stylist Loves editor Gemma Crisp. “But the stars of the small plates section were the chunky asparagus swimming in a vibrant green wild garlic emulsion and the intense red peppers that accompanied the acorn-fed black pork. Smoked potatoes were just the right mix of subtle and potent to offset the richness of the slow-cooked lamb shoulder, but the dessert menu truly stole the show with its splodge of pork fat custard with port caramel – don’t knock it til you try it. And don’t leave before ordering a Lisboa negroni – swapping gin for ginjinha, Portugal’s iconic cherry liqueur, the delicious result is something you definitely won’t find at Nando’s.” 30 Charlotte St, London, W1T; lisboeta.co.uk